Known to be one of the three largest festivals in Japan, the Sanja Matsuri was the most vivacious we've attended thus far, in Japan. A reported over 1.5 million people attended the three-day extravaganza in Asakusa. We joined in the festivities on the last day.
By now, you might be familiar with Asakusa. This famed tourist attraction is referred to in several previous blog posts.
Dozens of boisterous men and women packed tightly, carried this mikoshi toward the Sensoji Temple.
Children's float providing music with festival flutes and taiko drums
Kaminarimon Gate, entrance to Nakamise Dori
After living in Japan for over a year, being around large crowds doesn't seem to phase me as much anymore. After all, when you're dealing with a metropolis city with a population of over 28 million, you're bound to the masses almost always. However that Sunday, May 20th, Asakusa Station was way overcrowded! I mean, I can't explain how crowded it was. So crowded that it made Rodney want to turn around and head back home...but of course, we didn't.
I met some new friends sporting Edo-style happi-coats. They were having a break at curb side so I stopped and chatted for while. They welcomed my conversation and filled me in on some festival traditions. It was fascinating to hear their point of views.
The man standing on the mikoshi in the green happi-coat is known as the kashira. He bellows to the crowds in encouragement and also directs the carriers down the crowded path.
Sanja Matsuri started nearly 13 centuries ago to honor three fishermen who rescued a statue of the Kannon Goddess snagged in their nets. The Kannon statue is now enshrined in Asakusa's renowned Sensoji Temple. Over 80 elaborately decorated mikoshi are carried on the shoulders of several dozen men and women as they vigorously hustle through the throngs of people headed down the streets of the Shitamachi area, known as the old Edo of Asakusa. Mikoshi are portable shrines that are believed to carry the gods. The wilder the mikoshi is jolted during the procession, the more it is said to intensify the power to bring good luck. Each mikoshi is different from the next and each group, usually tradespeople and shop owners, wear signature happi-coats representing their district or town. Everywhere we turned, there were mikoshi bobbing up and down the streets. It was an incredible site!
Sanja Matsuri is definitely opposite of conservative. During the festival, Tokyo's yakuza (Japanese mafia) overtly display their full-bodied tattoos and join in the celebrations. Not all tattooed individuals are feared yakuza, some are tradespeople and some simply just like tattoos. Regardless, the festival carried on safely throughout the frenzy.
We were apprehensive, but since everyone was taking photos, we asked him if we could take a close-up picture. I asked, "Shashin o totte mo iidesu ka?" He said "Hai, dozo." ["Yes, go ahead"]
...And below, his backside. (Looks pretty comfy, eh?!)
I was compelled to move toward the front of the Sensoji Temple compound. We knew it was impossible to try to handle a stroller through the crowd, so Rodney agreed to stay back in the distance with Markus as I maneuvered like a snake into the crowd. This photo on the right is part of what I saw...
It was so warm out that afternoon and we weren't sure how well Markus would handle the heat and stress of the crowds. After about an hour, he fell asleep, even through all the raucous. Thank goodness we brought along his stroller.
Below is a slide show with a short action video of a group carrying a mikoshi.
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