Our family had a quiet New Year's Eve in Tokyo. First, we dined at a fantastic Italian Restaurant in Ginza called Liana Capella, then headed home soon after. To welcome the New Year, we enjoyed some fine wine, and watched TV switching channels between the NHK Broadcast and MTV Japan countdown, all the while packing for our ski trip for the next morning.
New Years in Japan is known as Oshogatsu; the most important holiday of the year. Along with the coming of the new year, there are many traditional occurrences that I find interesting. Here are a few for your reading pleasure.
Japanese say "Yoi otoshiwo" to each other on New Year's Eve. It means "Have a nice year passing". In the New Year, people greet each other with "Akemashite omedetou gozaimasu." あけましておめでとうございます. This means "Happy New Year". The usual phrase that follows is, "Kotoshimo yoroshiku onegaishimasu." Basically it translates as, "Let's continue our good relationship this year as well."
At midnight, most Buddhist temples ring the bell 108 times. It is said that each person has 108 attachments to their ego that we need to rid ourselves of before the New Year. When the clock struck 12, I slid open our balcony door and anticpated the bell from the local temple, but unfortunately I heard nothing. It was actually a very quiet night.
In the early morning, families head to the temples and shrines and pray for prosperity, good health and good luck. This first visit of the New Year is known as hatsumode. Some people dress in kimonos and carry wooden arrows called hamaya, which are demon-quelling weapons.
Throughout the country, many businesses, homes and even vehicles on the road display kadomatsu (see photo on right of Markus holding our mini kadomatsu). Typically, most decorations are made of sprigs of pine, bamboo, twisted straw, paper and sometimes ume (plum tree). Bitter tangerines are also displayed throughout homes to thank the gods for harvest. The kadomatsu, usually placed near the entrances of homes or buildings, represent prosperity, longevity and steadfastness.
Awakening before sunrise is also considered important, as viewing the first sunrise of the year known as hatsuhinode, is thought to be a good and proper start for the New Year. TV networks which broadcast continuously throughout the night, show pictures of the first sunrise breaking at various locations in Japan. The TV program we tuned in on showed people flocked to certain waterfronts near Odaiba. That morning, we were up before sunrise preparing to leave for our ski trip. Without a cloud in the sky, I was also able capture the perfect first sunrise from our balcony.
On January 1, 2008 at 6:51 A.M., this is the beautiful hatsuhinode I witnessed:
On New Year's Eve, toshikoshi soba (buckwheat flour noodles) is served. The thin long noodles symbolize longevity. Traditional New Year's food is known as osechi-ryori.
Depending on what part of the country you live, determines the type of osechi-ryori you'll most likely eat. Some examples of specially prepared food include ozoni soup, which is made of miso, seaweed, fish cakes, soy beans, simmered burdock root and mashed sweet potato.
Interestingly, most osechi-ryori can last for up to three or four days without refrigeration.
Another favourite is omochi, which are rice cakes (completely different from the Western-style rice cake that you're probably thinking of). Omochi is made by pounding down sticky mochi rice with a wooden pallet, than shaped into small blocks or rounds. Usually it is served grilled and wrapped in nori (seaweed).
Sadly enough, there are a number of elderly people who die each year from choking on the very sticky omochi. This year it was reported in Japan Times News on January 3, 2008, in the metropolitan area, 5 people died while 8 others choked, but survived.
The process of pounding down mochi rice to produce omochi becomes a festive affair each year.
Part of this valuable experience living in Japan is exploring the historic and fascinating culture. We've grown to love and respect many of what the country has to offer and continue forward feeding our minds with more to learn and experience in the New Year.
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